PRAGUE — Pilar Garcia sits inside the Church of Our Lady Victorious, praying the rosary while gazing at the baby Jesus, an icon she said is “very miraculous.” 

The 58-year-old is visiting Prague from Seville, Spain, with her son. She is a Catholic who prays and attends Mass every day. She said that being in church does not make her feel any emotion — but something that transcends it. 

“I don’t feel anything, I just know,” she said. “I know God is here.” 

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The city of Prague almost succumbed to the Swedish siege in October, 1648, during the Thirty Years War between Protestants and Catholics across Europe. 

In the midst of these attacks, people claim a wooden figure — only 47 centimeters (18 inches) high — that moved the invaders sides to end the occupation. 

This is just one of the many miracles attributed to the Holy Infant of Prague, an image that has become a symbol of the city that is, paradoxically, the capital of the most atheistic country in Europe and the third-most atheistic country in the world. 

The presence of the Infant Jesus of Prague — beyond being a simple object of veneration — has also become a cultural emblem that transcends borders and beliefs in the heart of an always enigmatic and captivating city.

At home in a church

Located in the church of Our Lady of Victorious, the clay statue attracts believers and non-believers from across the world. The tiny figure is almost lost among the golden motifs and figures who guard it — but it cannot go unnoticed. 

The Carmelite Order built the Baroque church from 1634 to 1669. Spain gifted the infant statue to  the Carmelites. The nuns routinely clothe the relic. He wears a golden crown and holds a globus cruciger (a globe with a cross on top). People often attribute blessing and miracles to the baby Jesus. In front of his altar, flashes and prayers coexist in equal measure. Many capture the icon on their smartphones.

Even without being its purpose, the Holy Infant of Prague ends up being the thread that leads everyone to this house of worship, which is considered a must-see by most tourist agencies such as Trip Advisor, Viator or Barceló.

On the day of our visit this last July, only 15 minutes remained before the church closed its doors for the day. Close to the altar stands María Eugenia Muñoz, a 57-year-old Spanish woman who has just left an offering at the feet of the most famous religious icon in Czechia. She is one of the dozens of tourists at that moment who passed through the place and rushed to snap photos of the little Jesus.

Spanish origins  

Muñoz said that, although she is not a particularly devout person, the decision to visit the Church of Our Lady of Victories was in response to a request from her mother, a practicing Catholic. 

"I'm not very religious, but my mother was here and she was happy," she said. "She asked me to come and bring her a picture of the holy infant.” 

Asked about its history, she confessed that she does not know the details of its origin — and that it only comes from Spain, like herself.  

And the connection of the Holy Infant with the Iberian nation is well documented. According to the book, “The Prague Infant Jesus: A History,” the figure was brought from Spain to Czechia in the 16th century. It was a gift from the Spanish Princess María Manrique de Lara to her daughter Polyxena de Lobkowicz, who then donated it to the Carmelites in 1628.

Less than 30 meters (100 feet) from the church’s entranceIgnacio Fernández, 47, a tourist guide of Spanish origin, shared the story of the famous figure of the child with a group of Spanish-speaking visitors. Fernández, who has been working in the capital for eight years, emphasized that the church and the infant Jesus are an unmissable attraction in the tours he conducts for visitors from Spain, Italy and across Latin America.

The guide identifies Colombia and Mexico as the nations that have the greatest connection with the baby Jesus. 

“People come here to ask infant Jesus for miracles,” he said. “Many women who cannot get pregnant kneel before him to grant their wishes.”

The interest that it arouses for visitors to the city contrasts with the fact that Prague is a largely agnostic metropolis. However, the commercialization of religious items on the streets — especially those related to the image — is a common phenomenon. Religious tourism has experienced a notable boom in recent years and Prague is not immune from it.

“I myself have experienced many miracles. Many, many, many,” Garcia said.

A cottage industry

The souvenir shop “Infans Jesus de Praga” — located in front of the church — is proof of how much the infant attracts tourists. Inside, most of the souvenirs are figures of the the baby Jesus, available in various sizes and with prices ranging between 250 and 1,000 Czech crowns (approximately $10 to $40). The small statues wear capes of liturgical colors, according to the Catholic calendar, adorned with golden details and drawings that simulate the lace on the tunics. 

Anastasia Pope, 31, a saleswoman, said while the Prague Nativity is perhaps one of the best known internationally, many countries have their own, with a style of dress typical of each place. Pope points out the Czech one, is known for its red clothing.

José Manuel Flores Armas, 27, a Mexican tourist passing by the shop, chose a crucifix to take home as a souvenir. The young man pointed out that one of the city's main attractions is its churches. He said his native Mexico also has a statue of the infant, whose outfit they also change regularly.

Prague has more than over 300 Catholic churches and cathedrals. This is due to the gradual conversion from paganism to Christianity by the Czechs beginning in the ninth century. During Communism, Czechoslovakians largely abandoned Christianity during the Soviet-run regime.

Now, the majority of Czechs are non-believers, meaning they are indifferent to faith or have no religious beliefs. Catholics are now a minority in Prague. According to the Strasbourg Consortium, only 9.3% of the population in Czechia identify as Catholics, while 2.4% identify as Christians of other denominations.  

Jitka Vyoralov, a Czech native and a non-believer, said she still enjoys visiting churches in Prague. She said she largely admires churches for their architecture and that the world still needs religion.

“Everyone should have religious freedom,” she said. “Sometimes it’s the only thing people have.” 

Gabriela Sanchez, Mabel Torres and Alexandra Aguirre were all students who took part in the 2024 European Journalism Institute that took place last summer and co-sponsored by The Media Project and The Fund for American Studies.